The Collector Guide
Choosing a Birkin or Kelly
How the Birkin and the Kelly differ, the sizes and leathers collectors choose, which bag is the most popular and why the Birkin became so famous. Also what is in demand in 2026.
Published 2026-09-30 · Reviewed on 2026-10-03 · 9 questions · 34 sources · Updated on 2026-10-03
MyQuotaBag is an independent app and is not affiliated with Hermès International or any of its affiliates. This page summarizes public reports from collectors and publishers. It is not verified fact and states no Hermès rule. Each boutique and country works differently and practices change. These are general observations shared without commitment. We do not claim that pre-spend exists or that any amount is required. Collectors describe bags going to established clients who buy over time, come back and build a relationship with their boutique. No outcome, offer or allocation is predicted or guaranteed.
On this page
- Birkin vs Kelly: which should I choose?
- What size and leather should I choose for a Birkin or Kelly?
- What is the most popular Hermès bag?
- Why is the Birkin so popular?
- What are the current Hermès bag trends?
- Which Hermès leather wears best: Togo, Epsom, Clémence, Swift or Box?
- What are Hermès exotic leathers?
- What hardware does Hermès use on a Birkin or Kelly?
- How do I read the date stamp on a Hermès bag?
Every answer carries its status. Official: stated by Hermès or by a primary record such as an auction result or a government page. Reported: stated by publishers or collectors, not by Hermès. Conflicting: collector reports give incompatible versions; the page shows them side by side. Unknown: no reliable answer yet.
Birkin vs Kelly: which should I choose?
The Birkin is carried by two rolled handles and has no shoulder strap, while the Kelly has one top handle, a front flap and a detachable strap for hands-free wear. Both are quota bags at similar prices, so the choice usually comes down to how you carry a bag and where you will wear it.
Details and sources
| Feature | Birkin | Kelly |
|---|---|---|
| Handles | Two rolled top handles, no shoulder strap | One top handle and a detachable shoulder strap |
| Closure | A flap closed with two leather straps | A front flap |
| Build | A structured base on protective feet; usually Retourné, with a stiffer Sellier version since 2014 | Sellier (outer stitching, sharp corners) or Retourné (inner stitching, softer) |
| Sizes counted as quota bags | 25, 30 and 35 | 20 (Mini), 25, 28, 32 and 35 |
| US retail price, January 2026 (PurseBop) | Birkin 25 in Togo: US$13,500; Birkin 30: US$14,900 | Kelly 25 Retourné in Togo: US$13,700; Kelly 28: US$15,400 |
| Origin | 1984, named after the actress Jane Birkin | 1935, as the Sac à dépêches; officially named after Grace Kelly in 1977 |
- Do you need a strap? Only the Kelly has one; Sotheby's notes that it allows hands-free use.
- Where will you wear it? Sotheby's describes the Sellier Kelly as more formal and suited to evening wear and the Retourné Kelly as more casual and suited to daytime.
- Which size suits you? Sotheby's names the Birkin 25 and 30 as the most requested sizes. See What size and leather should I choose for a Birkin or Kelly?
On the resale market, small sizes lead: Sotheby's names the Mini Kelly 20 and the Birkin 25 as the most desired and notes that a pristine Mini Kelly 20 can sell for more than a Birkin 30 (October 2025). Resale demand says little about which bag you will enjoy using.
What size and leather should I choose for a Birkin or Kelly?
The Birkin 25 and 30 are the most requested sizes and Togo and Epsom the most scratch-resistant of the common leathers, according to Sotheby's; the right choice still depends on what you carry and how you wear it.
Details and sources
| Bag | US price, January 2026 | What Sotheby's notes |
|---|---|---|
| Birkin 25 in Togo | US$13,500 | Among the most requested sizes and, with the Mini Kelly 20, the most desired on resale |
| Birkin 30 in Togo | US$14,900 | Among the most requested sizes |
| Birkin 35 in Togo | US$16,300 | On resale, sizes 30 and 35 trade 30 to 50% below compact sizes |
| Mini Kelly 20 in Epsom | US$11,400 | Made only in Sellier construction; can resell above a Birkin 30 |
| Kelly 25 Retourné in Togo | US$13,700 | Also made in Sellier |
| Kelly 28 in Togo or Epsom | US$15,400 | Sizes run from the Mini Kelly 20 to the Kelly 35 |
| Leather | Look and feel | How it wears |
|---|---|---|
| Togo | Soft, matte, with a pronounced grain | Highly scratch-resistant |
| Epsom | Light, rigid, embossed | Resists scratches and water |
| Clémence | Softer and heavier | Less structured, inclined to slouch |
| Box | Smooth and glossy | Prone to scratches and water marks |
| Exotic skins | Crocodile, alligator, ostrich, lizard | Sold at far higher prices |
Sellier construction has outer stitching and sharp corners and keeps a firm shape; Retourné is stitched inside and softer. Hermès applied Sellier construction to the Birkin from 2014, according to Sotheby's (April 2026). On resale, Sotheby's names Togo and Epsom as the best-performing leathers and bags made from 2020 on as the most sought after (October 2025).
Every dated price MyQuotaBag holds, with its source and its date, is on What are the documented Hermès bag prices by model and market?
What is the most popular Hermès bag?
No official ranking exists, but the Birkin is the bag most often named: in the public collector discussions MyQuotaBag counted, it appears in slightly more threads than the Kelly and it holds the auction record for any handbag.
Details and sources
The Birkin appears in 59% of the threads MyQuotaBag counted and the Kelly in 56%, the Mini Kelly in 25% and the Constance in 16% (count of 2026-09-10). Counting a name is not counting sales: a thread about one bag often mentions another.
Hermès does not publish sales by model. Its leather goods and saddlery business, which includes all bags, made 44% of its 2025 revenue: €7.07 billion out of €16.0 billion (official, full-year results, February 12, 2026).
The auction record is a Birkin: see What is the most expensive Hermès bag ever sold?
Why is the Birkin so popular?
The Birkin combines a famous origin story with scarcity and craft: it was created in 1984 after the actress Jane Birkin met Jean-Louis Dumas, then head of Hermès, on a flight and each one is made by a single artisan over at least 18 hours, according to Sotheby's.
Details and sources
As AP told it in July 2023, Jane Birkin spilled her things on a London-bound flight, sketched the bag she wanted and Dumas had a prototype made. Sources disagree on the year of the flight: Sotheby's gives 1981 in one article and 1984 in another, while AP places it in the 1980s and dates the name to 1984.
Scarcity does the rest. Hermès sells the Birkin only in its stores (official, checked September 30, 2026), usually as an offer rather than from a shelf. Popular culture made the wait famous: a 2001 episode of Sex and the City built a plot around the Birkin waiting list (Euronews, July 18, 2023).
The bag's own history keeps it in the news. Jane Birkin owned five Birkins and gave two to charity auctions (Sotheby's); her original sold for about US$10.1 million in July 2025. She died in Paris on July 16, 2023.
What are the current Hermès bag trends?
As of September 2026, small bags lead: Sotheby's names the Mini Kelly 20 and the Birkin 25 as the most desired on resale and the Birkin 20 has become a collector target at auction.
Details and sources
- New models. Hermès reported that its new Cliquetis, Kelly Hobo and Double Longe bags met with great success in the first half of 2026 (official, July 29, 2026).
- Minis at auction. A Vanille alligator Birkin 20 sold for €108,800 at Sotheby's in Paris in April 2026 (Sotheby's).
- Colors. New leather colors for 2026 include Bai Brun, Carbone and Vert Loden among the neutrals and Guimauve, Purple and Jaune Mango among the brighter shades (PurseBop, February 28, 2026).
- Worn bags. Knight Frank reports demand moving toward pre-owned, visibly worn bags, with the most active segment between US$6,000 and US$9,000 (April 2026).
Outdated. Trends date quickly: this section reflects sources from October 2025 to September 2026.
Which Hermès leather wears best: Togo, Epsom, Clémence, Swift or Box?
Togo and Epsom are the most forgiving of the five: Sotheby's describes both as resisting scratches and water. Clémence resists scratches but is slightly more vulnerable to water, while Swift and Box are smooth leathers that scratch more easily.
Details and sources
| Leather | Grain and feel | Scratches and water | How collectors describe it aging |
|---|---|---|---|
| Togo | Soft, raised grain; lightweight | Resists scratches and water | Softens and gains a gentle sheen without losing structure (Sotheby's) |
| Epsom | Heat-pressed, cross-hatched grain; light and rigid | Resists scratches, water and minor dents | Keeps its shape for years (Sotheby's); can keep a crease if bent or folded (PurseBop) |
| Clémence | Heavier, supple, matte, with a soft drape | Resists scratches and scuffs; slightly more vulnerable to water | Develops a velvety patina (Sotheby's) and can slouch over time, above all when overstuffed (PurseBop) |
| Swift | Fine grain, smooth and supple, with a slight sheen | More delicate and prone to scratches | Less structured (Sotheby's); valued for how it takes color (PurseBop) |
| Box | Smooth, polished calfskin | Scratches more easily than grained leathers; PurseBop warns that water can blister it | Develops a rich patina and grows more luminous over time; marks can be buffed out (Sotheby's) |
Sotheby's calls Togo the most widely used and collector-preferred Hermès leather and Epsom the most popular leather for the Kelly (May 2026). Wearing best is not the only measure: Box is valued by collectors for its polish and patina even though it marks more easily.
For which sizes collectors request and how leather affects resale, see What size and leather should I choose for a Birkin or Kelly?
What are Hermès exotic leathers?
Hermès exotic leathers are reptile and ostrich skins: Sotheby's names crocodile, alligator, ostrich and lizard for the Birkin and counts six exotic skins in all. They sell at substantially higher prices than calf leathers and taking one across a border can require CITES paperwork.
Details and sources
| Skin | What Sotheby's and PurseBop describe |
|---|---|
| Crocodile | Two kinds: Porosus (the most prized) and Niloticus. Niloticus is used for the Himalaya Birkin and Kelly. Offered in shiny and matte finishes |
| Alligator | American alligator, used mostly for smaller bags and accessories because large skins often have uneven scales. Offered in shiny, matte and Boreal Satin finishes |
| Ostrich | Recognized by its quill follicles; PurseBop notes that it darkens and softens with use |
| Lizard | Two kinds, Niloticus and Salvator. Sotheby's calls it the rarest Hermès exotic, usually made in sizes of 25 cm or smaller |
On crocodile and alligator bags a small symbol next to the date stamp identifies the skin: Sotheby's gives a caret for Porosus crocodile and a square for alligator. Ostrich bags carry no such symbol, according to Sotheby's and PurseBop. Sotheby's ranks Himalaya Birkins and bags pairing exotic skins with diamond-set hardware among the most valuable Hermès bags on the secondary market; see What is the most expensive Hermès bag ever sold?
CITES, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species, regulates international trade in listed species, including their parts and products, through permits and certificates (U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service). The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service notes that some crocodilian and lizard species are protected and that leather products made from them may be subject to trade restrictions, so it advises checking before buying abroad or traveling with them. PurseBop reports that Hermès ostrich bags come with a CITES certificate.
For travelers to and from the United States, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service describes a personal-effects exemption for legally acquired items worn or carried in baggage. It has conditions: it excludes Appendix I species and items mailed or shipped separately. Other countries set their own rules, so check with the wildlife authorities of each country before traveling with or shipping an exotic bag.
What hardware does Hermès use on a Birkin or Kelly?
Gold and palladium are the standard hardware on a Birkin or Kelly. Rose gold, permabrass, brushed gold and brushed palladium also exist and PurseBop reports that the brushed finishes and permabrass are offered only on Special Orders.
Details and sources
| Finish | How it is offered, as reported |
|---|---|
| Gold | Standard; available on all bags (PurseBop, 2024) |
| Palladium | Standard, silver-toned; available on all bags. Hermès generally pairs it with pink bags (PurseBop, 2023) |
| Rose gold | Less common; PurseBop notes that it may vary by location |
| Permabrass | Special Order only; can be chosen for a Mini Kelly (PurseBop, 2024) |
| Brushed gold and brushed palladium | Special Order only; not offered on mini bags such as the Mini Kelly (PurseBop, 2024 and 2026; Sotheby's, 2025) |
Sotheby's counts six hardware choices for a Special Order Birkin or Kelly: gold, brushed gold, palladium, brushed palladium, rose gold and permabrass (November 2025). It also lists ruthenium and matte black among the less common finishes seen on Birkins and diamond-set precious-metal hardware on the rarest pieces (August 2026).
Some bags mix tones: PurseBop reported in November 2024 that Hermès released a Kelly 25 with Electrum hardware, which combines gold and palladium on the same bag.
For what a Special Order is, see the glossary entry Special Order (SO).
How do I read the date stamp on a Hermès bag?
The letter in the stamp indicates the year the bag was made, according to PurseBop; the shape around the letter tells collectors which era it belongs to. The stamp dates a bag but does not prove it is authentic.
Details and sources
| Period | What PurseBop reports |
|---|---|
| 1945 to 1970 | A letter alone, following the alphabet in order |
| 1971 to 1996 | The alphabet in order again, each letter inside a circle |
| 1997 to 2014 | Letters A to R in order, each inside a square |
| From 2015 | Letters chosen out of order, so the next one cannot be anticipated; K for 2025 |
The stamp sits alongside the artisan's mark and, on exotic bags, a symbol for the skin. PurseBop reported in 2016 that it had been placed on the inside of the straps since 1945 and that on the Kelly it was moving to a hidden spot in the leather folds, first on exotic bags around 2014 and on calf leather bags by 2016.
A bag bought new in a boutique can carry the previous year's letter when it was delayed in production or shipping, according to PurseBop (January 2025).
A date stamp is not an authentication method. PurseBop notes that the markings alone cannot validate a bag. Authentication belongs to Hermès or a professional authenticator.
Where MyQuotaBag fits
In MyQuotaBag you can set the bag you hope for as your Quota Bag and keep other pieces among your dream items, with photos and notes, while you decide. The app keeps your choice in one place; it does not tell you which bag you will be offered. See the app.
Sources
- Complete Guide to Buying a Kelly Bag
- Complete Guide to Buying a Birkin Bag
- Everything You Need to Know About the Hermès Birkin
- Top Five Hermès Purses to Start Your Collection
- Hermès Birkin Sellier: A More Structured Birkin
- Your Guide to the Top 10 Hermès Bags
- Top 5 Things to Consider When Valuing a Birkin Bag or Hermès Kelly Bag
- New US Hermès Prices 2026
- What Is Considered a Quota Bag at Hermès?
- 2025 full-year results (press release)
- Community claims measured against the corpus
- The Top 6 Most Expensive Hermès Birkin Bags
- Jane Birkin, actor, singer and style icon, dies in Paris at 76 (AP)
- A happy accident: the story behind the Birkin bag
- Jane Birkin's Original Birkin Bags
- Products: Availability (FAQ)
- Jane Birkin's original namesake Hermès bag sells for record-breaking €8.6m at Sotheby's Paris
- Half-year information report as at the end of June 2026 (press release)
- The Newest Hermès Bag Collector Obsession: The Birkin 20
- New Hermès Colors 2026
- The Wealth Report: Our Luxury Investment Index Results 2026
- Top Five Most Popular Hermès Leather
- An Insider's Guide to Hermès Leathers
- Hermès Crocodile and Alligator Bag Buying Guide
- The Complete Guide to Hermès Lizard Bags
- CITES Permits and Certificates (fact sheet)
- Be Informed. Buy Informed. A Guide for Travelers Going Abroad
- Insider's Guide to Special Order HSS Hermès Birkin and Kelly Bags
- Guide to Hermès Special Orders in 2024
- Hermès 2026 Special Order Guide: What's New?
- Why Does Hermès Produce Pink Bags With Palladium Hardware Instead of Gold Hardware?
- Hermès Releases Select Handbags with Electrum Hardware
- What Is The New Hermès Blind Date Stamp Letter for 2025?
- Hermes Moves the Blind Stamp
More in The Collector Guide
In MyQuotaBag Data
How this page was written
Each section answers one question in its first sentence, then gives the details. Every answer carries its status and its date and the sources are listed with their dates at the end of the page. What collectors report is written as reported, never as an Hermès rule. Collector discussions are counted by platform; a thread is linked only where it supports a specific point and never when it tells one person's story. Figures from MyQuotaBag Data are read from the dataset each time the page is built.
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