Hermès Togo leather
The everyday leather collectors trust most.
Togo is the leather many collectors picture when they think of a Birkin. It is a calfskin with a round, irregular grain that has been drummed rather than printed, so every hide shows its own pattern, including the fine veins that run through it. Hermès introduced it in 1997 and named it after Togo, in keeping with Africa, the house's theme that year.
Its reputation rests on a simple quality: it forgives. The grain hides small marks, light rain rarely troubles it and it keeps its shape for years before softening gently.
A few things worth knowing
- Hermès dates Togo to 1997; it is still made today, including at the house's tannery in Le Puy-en-Velay, where production began in 2018.
- The grain is natural and drummed, not printed: veins and creases remain visible.
- In January 2026, a Togo Birkin 25 was reported at US$13,500 at US boutiques, the same price as Swift.
- On the resale market it is the reference: every other leather on these pages is compared with the same bag in Togo.
Togo at a glance
- Family
- Calf and cowhide leathers
- Since
- 1997
- Grain
- Natural, pebbled, with visible veins
- Boutique price versus Togo
- The reference
- Resale versus Togo
- The reference (1.00)
- Share of listings
- about 19%
Our ratings
- Scratch resistance
- 8/10
- Holds its shape
- 6/10
- Lightness
- 7/10
- Rain and water
- 7/10
- Easy care
- 8/10
- Color depth
- 7/10
- Patina
- 4/10
- Visible natural grain: yes
- Embossed grain: no
- Structured look: no
- Made for daily use: yes
- CITES paperwork to travel: no
Our take. These ratings are MyQuotaBag's editorial view, built from the sources listed below and from collectors' experience. They are not measurements. Resale versus Togo and share of listings are measured from public listings.
On this page
Origin and history
Togo arrived in 1997 and quickly became the house's most common bag leather. Hermès describes it as calfskin; some resellers call it bull calf, a disagreement the brand's own wording settles. In 2018 Hermès announced the launch of Togo production at the Tanneries du Puy, one of the calf tanneries it owns in France. The same year a hand-painted variation, Togo Cosmos, appeared.
Hermès has never presented Togo as the successor of another leather. The replacements collectors talk about (Courchevel and Veau Grain Lisse giving way to Epsom, Gulliver to Swift) do not involve it.
Look and feel
The surface is matte, with a pebbled grain that varies from hide to hide. Look closely and you will often find veins: thin lines where the animal's blood vessels once ran. Some collectors prize them, others prefer a cleaner grain. The leather is supple yet holds a shape, which makes it equally at home on a Birkin, a Kelly Retourne or a backpack.
How it wears
Scratches. Owners cite Togo, with Clemence, as the leather that shows scratches least. The grain absorbs small marks. The weak point is the corners, which can scuff to the point of showing the lighter layer under the dye; a repair at Hermès is common.
Water. A shower is not a problem for most owners; a long soaking is. Wipe drops promptly, as Hermès advises for every leather.
Shape. Togo stands well in its first years, then relaxes slowly, more so in a Birkin 35 than a 30.
Weight. Single bags weighed by owners and reported on a forum: a Birkin 30 at 893 g and a Birkin 35 at 1,122 g. Guides call it light or medium; it sits in the middle of the calf leathers.
Patina. Togo softens and gains a slight sheen with time but does not darken the way Box or Barenia do.
Care
A dry, soft cloth is usually enough. For a light mark, a slightly damp cloth. Hermès advises against commercial leather products that are not suited to its leathers and against moisture-absorbing sachets in storage, which dry the leather. Keep hand cream and sunscreen away from light-colored handles; a twilly protects them. Corners and edges can be refreshed by Hermès's repair service.
Who it suits
Daily use, travel, first bags and anyone who wants to carry a bag rather than protect it. It is also a favorite of MyQuotaBag's founder, for the veins you can see in the grain.
Where the sources disagree
- Weight. Some guides call Togo light, others medium to heavy. The few bags weighed by owners place it in the middle.
- Color. Some owners find colors deeper on Clemence than on Togo; others disagree.
- Animal. Hermès says calfskin; some guides say bull calf.
- Date. Hermès dates Togo to 1997. One auction house dated a navy Togo Birkin 40 to 1995; a dated bag is not a launch record, so we keep the date Hermès gives.
Togo resale prices
Median asking prices, October 19, 2026. US dollars, from public resale listings, not confirmed sale prices.
Togo is the reference leather on this page: every other leather is compared with a Togo bag of the same model, size and condition.
| Bag | Condition | Median asking | Same bag in Togo | Listings |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Birkin 25 | Pristine | US$30,900 | – | about 250 |
| Birkin 25 | Pre-owned | US$28,600 | – | about 310 |
| Birkin 30 | Pristine | US$30,800 | – | about 150 |
| Birkin 30 | Pre-owned | US$23,000 | – | about 560 |
| Birkin 35 | Pristine | US$33,500 | – | about 50 |
| Birkin 35 | Pre-owned | US$18,500 | – | about 470 |
| Birkin 40 | Pristine | US$34,500 | – | about 20 |
| Birkin 40 | Pre-owned | US$19,500 | – | about 70 |
| Birkin 50 | Pre-owned | US$29,500 | – | fewer than 20 |
| Kelly 25 | Pristine | US$28,500 | – | about 100 |
| Kelly 25 | Pre-owned | US$25,300 | – | about 120 |
| Kelly 28 | Pristine | US$27,500 | – | about 40 |
| Kelly 28 | Pre-owned | US$20,000 | – | about 220 |
| Kelly 32 | Pristine | US$24,500 | – | fewer than 20 |
| Kelly 32 | Pre-owned | US$15,600 | – | about 150 |
| Kelly 35 | Pre-owned | US$13,500 | – | about 100 |
| Kelly 40 | Pre-owned | US$13,200 | – | fewer than 20 |
| Picotin 18 | Pre-owned | US$4,300 | – | fewer than 20 |
| Garden Party 30 | Pre-owned | US$4,300 | – | fewer than 20 |
Think of these figures as a snapshot of the market rather than a valuation of any particular bag. Explore resale prices by bag, size and year.
Frequently asked questions
Is Togo or Epsom better for everyday use?
Both are popular daily leathers. Togo hides scratches better and feels softer; Epsom is more structured, handles rain well and keeps its corners crisp in shape, although owners report corner wear on both.
Does Togo have veins?
Often, yes. Veins are part of its natural grain and vary from hide to hide. They are not a defect.
Does Togo get softer with time?
Yes. It relaxes slowly over the years, more visibly on larger bags.
Can a Togo bag get wet?
Light rain is generally fine. Wipe it dry with a soft cloth right away and let it air-dry away from heat.
References
- Hermès, product descriptions of Togo calfskin bags (Hac à Dos, Sac à dépêches, Kelly Messenger).
- Hermès International, Document de référence 2018 and Universal Registration Documents 2022 and 2025.
- PurseBop, "An Insider's Guide to Hermès Leathers".
- 1stdibs, "The Definitive Guide to Hermès Birkin Bag Leathers".
- PurseForum, owner discussions on Hermès leathers, wear and bag weights.
- PurseBop, Hermès US price reports, January 2026.
- Artcurial, Birkin 40 in Togo calfskin, 1995.
About this guide
MyQuotaBag brings together what is known about each Hermès leather, from brand material, tanneries, regulators, the press and collectors. It also says where the sources disagree. Ratings are our own view. Resale figures are public asking prices, not confirmed sales or valuations.
MyQuotaBag is independent and is not affiliated with or endorsed by Hermès.
How to cite: MyQuotaBag, « Hermès Togo leather », Hermès Leathers, resale snapshot of 2026-10-19. https://myquotabag.com/leathers/togo/