An extraordinary bag with a surprisingly simple beginning.
Few handbags have a story quite like the Birkin.
Created by Hermès in 1984 and named after British actress and singer Jane Birkin, it began as a practical idea: a beautiful bag with enough room for everyday life.
Four decades later, it has become one of the most recognizable handbags in the world. Loved for its craftsmanship, admired for its design and endlessly discussed among collectors, the Birkin has become much more than the bag it was originally meant to be.
A few things worth knowing
Its story began with a chance meeting between Jane Birkin and Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight.
Each Birkin is made by one artisan, taking at least 18 hours according to Sotheby's.
The four classic sizes are 25, 30, 35 and 40 cm, with Sellier and Retourne constructions.
You won't find a Birkin for sale on the Hermès website. Offers happen through boutiques, without an official waiting list.
Prices today
Updated October 18, 2026, from public resale listings read every day.
What is a Birkin actually listed for on the resale market? Choose a size and a condition: the figures and the chart follow.
Size
Condition
Median asking priceUS$22,900
Middle halfUS$19,000 to US$28,500
Listingsabout 1,420
Estimated sale priceUS$18,300 to US$20,600MyQuotaBag estimate: 10 to 20% below the median asking price
These are asking prices. They are what sellers ask on public listings, mostly in the United States, Europe and Asia, converted to US dollars. They include each seller's margin. Buyers often pay less: recent auction and resale reports put many bags between retail and about 30% below the asking prices seen here. The estimated sale price is a MyQuotaBag estimate, not a valuation of any bag.
Birkin 30
Classic leather. The chart follows the size and condition chosen; each column is a US$2,000 step, tap a column for its figures. Condition levels follow each seller's own grading, grouped by MyQuotaBag; All counts every listing, including those marked only « used ». Snapshot of 2026-10-18.
Arriving November 16, 2026
Asking prices over time. A second chart here will show how Birkin asking prices move week by week, for the size and condition chosen above.
Time on the market. How long a Birkin listing stays online before it is withdrawn. A withdrawn listing does not necessarily mean the bag sold.
Some of the most memorable designs begin with an ordinary conversation.
In 1984, Jane Birkin was flying from Paris to London when she found herself seated beside Jean-Louis Dumas, then executive chairman of Hermès.
Jane was a young mother with a familiar problem. She needed a bag that could carry everything her day demanded, without sacrificing the elegance she loved.
Dumas listened and began sketching.
His idea was a spacious leather bag with a relaxed shape, sturdy handles and room for the things Jane needed, including her baby's bottles.
The design drew inspiration from an earlier Hermès creation, the Haut à Courroies, originally made to carry equestrian equipment.
The first Birkin was made in black leather with gold-tone hardware. Unlike today's classic versions, Jane's original bag also had a shoulder strap that couldn't be removed.
What began as a practical solution would eventually become one of fashion's most recognizable designs.
A bag with a life of its own
Jane didn't treat her Birkin like a museum piece.
She carried it, used it and made it part of her everyday life. In 1994, she donated the original bag to a charity auction supporting Sidaction, an organization dedicated to fighting HIV and AIDS.
Years later, that very bag made history again.
On July 10, 2025, it sold at Sotheby's in Paris for approximately €8.6 million, setting a record for a handbag sold at auction.
Jane's relationship with the name wasn't always straightforward. In 2015, following concerns about crocodile farming practices, she asked Hermès to stop using her name on crocodile Birkins. Hermès responded by investigating the concerns.
Jane Birkin passed away in 2023, but the bag that carries her name remains closely connected to her story.
And perhaps that's what makes its beginnings so interesting: the Birkin was never conceived as an investment or a status symbol.
It was simply meant to be useful.
What makes the Birkin special?
The craftsmanship
Behind every Birkin is an artisan.
From cutting the leather to assembling the bag and finishing its details, the work is entrusted to a single craftsperson.
According to Sotheby's, making one takes at least 18 hours.
Each bag also carries a discreet stamp that helps identify when and where it was made.
It's a level of craftsmanship that takes time, experience and considerable attention to detail.
The experience of acquiring one
Unlike most handbags, a Birkin isn't something you can simply add to an online shopping cart.
Hermès offers Birkins through its boutiques and the house doesn't publish a waiting list or a formula for receiving an offer.
That uncertainty has become part of the experience.
For some collectors, receiving a Birkin offer marks a memorable moment in a relationship with the boutique. For others, the appeal is simply the bag itself: its design, history and craftsmanship.
Both perspectives are part of the Birkin story.
Small bags, big differences
An interesting thing has happened over time.
The Birkin was originally designed to be roomy and practical, yet smaller sizes have become especially desirable among collectors.
Our resale data lets you explore that difference by size, condition and leather. The figures change as new listings appear.
That doesn't mean every smaller Birkin is worth more. Leather, color, condition, age and rarity can make a considerable difference.
But it shows how collectors' preferences can shape the resale market.
The design
A silhouette that hasn't needed much change
At first glance, the Birkin is beautifully simple.
Two rounded handles, a structured base and a wide opening give it a familiar, balanced shape.
Look a little closer and you'll notice the details that make it unmistakable.
The two leather straps, known as sangles, cross the front of the bag and meet at a turn-lock closure. A small padlock and its keys are traditionally carried in a leather holder called a clochette.
Underneath, four metal feet, called clous, help protect the base.
Despite its reputation as a luxury collectible, the Birkin was designed to be used. Its generous interior and practical construction are reminders of that original purpose.
And while Hermès has experimented with different materials, colors and proportions, the essential silhouette has remained remarkably consistent.
Sizes and versions
Finding the right Birkin
One of the first decisions collectors face is size.
Birkin sizes are named after the approximate width of the bag's base, measured in centimeters.
The four classic options are the Birkin 25, 30, 35 and 40.
The 25 has become particularly popular among collectors who prefer smaller bags. The 30 offers a little more room, while the 35 and 40 stay closer to the spacious spirit of Jane Birkin's original design.
There are also rarer creations, including the miniature Birkin 20 Faubourg and Micro Birkin 15.
Sellier or Retourne?
Two Birkins in the same size can look surprisingly different.
The difference often comes down to how they're constructed.
Retourne has softer, rounded edges. The bag is stitched inside out and then turned, giving it a more relaxed silhouette.
Sellier has sharper edges and visible exterior stitching. Its shape is more structured and architectural.
Neither is inherently better. It's a matter of personal preference.
Some collectors love the softness of a Retourne. Others prefer the crisp lines of a Sellier.
Beyond the classics
Over the years, Hermès has explored the Birkin in unexpected ways.
The Shoulder Birkin brought a different proportion to the design. The Cargo introduced practical exterior pockets, while the Picnic experimented with woven materials.
The Faubourg Birkin pays tribute to the historic Hermès boutique at 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris.
Then there's the Himalaya, known for its extraordinary crocodile leather and delicate transition from gray to pale white.
Each variation tells a slightly different story, while remaining connected to the original design.
Leathers and hardware
The details that make each Birkin different
Two Birkins can share the same size and color yet feel completely different.
Much of that comes down to the leather.
Togo is one of the most familiar choices. Introduced in 1997, it has a matte finish, a visible grain and a reputation for handling everyday use well.
Clemence is softer and heavier, giving the bag a more relaxed appearance over time.
Epsom is lighter and more structured. Its embossed grain helps the bag maintain its shape.
Box calf has a smooth, glossy surface that develops a beautiful patina, although scratches tend to show more easily.
For those drawn to rarer materials, Hermès has also created Birkins in crocodile, alligator, ostrich and lizard.
The finishing touches
Hardware can make a remarkable difference to the overall appearance.
Gold and palladium are the most familiar finishes, but collectors may also encounter rose gold, permabrass, brushed metals, ruthenium and matte black.
Some exceptional pieces feature precious metals and diamonds.
It's one reason collectors often describe a Birkin through a combination of details rather than simply its size.
A Gold Birkin 25 with gold hardware, for example, has a very different personality from the same bag in black with palladium hardware.
Sometimes, those small differences are exactly what make a particular bag feel right.
Special orders
When a Birkin becomes truly personal
For some collectors, one of the most exciting possibilities is a Hermès special order.
Through this invitation-only program, selected clients can create a Birkin using combinations of colors, leathers and hardware that aren't part of the standard collection.
These bags are often recognizable by a small horseshoe stamp beside the Hermès stamp.
That's why collectors commonly refer to them as HSS Birkins.
Two-tone designs are especially familiar, although the possibilities depend on the choices Hermès makes available.
Not every client receives an invitation and there is no publicly documented formula for obtaining one.
For those who do, the appeal is often personal: the opportunity to create something that reflects their own taste.
How do you buy a Birkin?
A different kind of shopping experience
If you've never shopped for a Birkin, the process might seem unusual.
You won't find one available for purchase on the Hermès website and there's no official waiting list to join.
Instead, Birkin offers happen through Hermès boutiques.
Collectors often describe building a relationship with a boutique and a Sales Associate over time. Some report that their purchase history and interest in different Hermès collections have played a role in their experience.
But it's important to separate those personal accounts from official policy.
Hermès doesn't publish a required spending amount or a formula for receiving a Birkin offer.
Every client's experience can be different. While the process may be part of the journey for some collectors, no purchase or relationship can guarantee an offer.
What does a Birkin cost at the boutique?
Prices depend on the size, leather, market and configuration.
For reference, Sotheby's reports these approximate US retail prices for 2026:
Model
Approximate retail price
Birkin 25 Togo
US$13,500
Birkin 30
US$14,900
Birkin 35
US$16,300
These are published reference prices, not live boutique quotations.
For a broader perspective, explore our guides to boutique pricing, the Birkin and Kelly sizes and what collectors report about the purchasing experience.
The resale market offers another perspective on the Birkin. Some collectors turn to it for a particular color or size; others to find pieces no longer offered in boutiques. Prices vary widely, which is why a single price rarely tells the whole story.
Classic leather, by size
Median asking prices, October 18, 2026. US dollars, asking prices from public listings, not confirmed sale prices.
Size
Pristine, asking
Pre-owned, asking
Listings
Birkin 25
US$31,500
US$27,900
about 840
Birkin 30
US$31,500
US$21,800
about 1,420
Birkin 35
US$33,500
US$18,200
about 1,200
Birkin 40
US$34,500
US$18,800
about 140
Versions and special editions
All sizes and conditions together. A version with fewer than 20 listings says less about the market than one with several thousand.
VersionMedian asking priceListings
HimalayaUS$159,800fewer than 20
Matte Niloticus crocodile dyed by hand in a gradient, from smoky gray at the base to white at the top, a nod to the snowy peaks it is named after. Very few are made and fewer still reach the resale market, so a handful of listings sets this median.
CargoUS$58,600about 20
Limited editions that pair a canvas body with Swift leather trim and practical, utility-inspired details. They are recent, made in small numbers and most listings are unworn, which is why their asking prices sit well above classic leather.
Exotic skinsUS$44,500about 430
A Birkin in crocodile, alligator, ostrich or lizard. These skins are made in far smaller numbers and cost much more at the boutique. Crossing a border with one can require CITES paperwork and some countries restrict them.
FaubourgUS$33,000about 30
Limited editions inspired by the Hermès store at 24 Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. The front recreates the facade in leather, with its windows, doors and rooftop, on a structured body. Small runs and a playful design keep them rare.
SellierUS$31,800about 80
Sellier means the bag is sewn from the outside, with sharp edges and a rigid, structured shape, the way saddles are made. The softer alternative, Retourne, is sewn inside out and turned. On a Birkin, Sellier is the rarer and more formal construction.
Toile and canvasUS$29,900about 60
Canvas, often Toile H or Toile Goéland, paired with leather trim. Lighter and more casual than an all-leather Birkin, it is often chosen for travel and summer.
Special order (HSS)US$23,000about 100
HSS stands for Horseshoe Stamp. A special order lets a client choose the leather, a second contrasting color, the stitching and the hardware. A small horseshoe stamp near the Hermès stamp marks every one. They are offered by the boutique, not requested freely.
Classic leatherUS$22,800about 3,670
The reference: a Birkin in one of the house's standard leathers, such as Togo, Epsom, Clemence or Swift, in a single color. Most listings fall here, which is why this median is the most reliable on the page.
VersoUS$22,600about 40
A two-color Birkin: one color outside and a contrasting color inside, on the lining and the inner side of the flap or straps. The surprise only shows when the bag is open.
Haut à CourroiesUS$20,000about 60
The Haut à Courroies is the tall saddle-carrying bag from the 1890s that inspired the Birkin. It is taller and narrower, with longer straps and is made in larger sizes. Collectors treat it as a separate model within the family.
ShoulderUS$17,500about 60
The Birkin Shoulder has longer handles so it can be carried on the shoulder rather than in the hand. It is made in larger formats and in small numbers.
Tap a version to see what it is.
Think of these figures as a snapshot of the market rather than a valuation of any particular bag.
Hermès dates the Birkin's creation to 1984, following a chance meeting between Jane Birkin and Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight from Paris to London.
Some accounts place the original meeting in 1981, but 1984 is the date used by Hermès.
Why is it called the Birkin?
The bag was named after Jane Birkin, the British actress and singer whose search for a practical yet elegant everyday bag inspired its creation.
What sizes are available?
The four classic sizes are 25, 30, 35 and 40 cm.
Hermès has also produced smaller and rarer versions, including the Birkin 20 Faubourg and Micro Birkin 15.
What's the difference between Sellier and Retourne?
It's mainly about construction and appearance.
Retourne has softer, rounded edges, while Sellier has sharper lines and a more structured shape.
Both are authentic Birkin constructions.
Which leather should I choose?
That depends on what matters most to you.
Togo is popular for everyday use. Clemence offers a softer, more relaxed appearance. Epsom keeps a structured silhouette, while Box calf appeals to collectors who appreciate a smooth finish and developing patina.
There isn't one perfect leather for everyone.
Can I special order a Birkin?
Yes, but special orders are offered by invitation to selected Hermès clients.
These bags typically feature a small horseshoe stamp and can include special combinations of colors, leathers and hardware.
Is there a waiting list?
Hermès does not operate an official Birkin waiting list.
Offers are made through boutiques and the house doesn't publish specific criteria for receiving one.
Do I need a purchase history?
Many collectors report that an established relationship with a boutique has been part of their experience.
However, Hermès doesn't publish a required purchase amount and buying other products doesn't guarantee a Birkin offer.
How much does a Birkin cost?
At retail, Sotheby's reports approximately US$13,500 for a Birkin 25 in Togo in the United States in 2026.
For resale asking prices, explore the live figures above. Asking prices are not the same as confirmed sale prices.
Actual selling prices may differ.
What's the most expensive Birkin ever sold?
Jane Birkin's own original bag sold at Sotheby's in Paris on July 10, 2025 for approximately €8.6 million.
It set a record for the most expensive handbag sold at auction.
References
Hermès, “Birkin”, the Hermès website
Sotheby's, “Complete Guide to Buying a Birkin Bag”
Sotheby's, “Hermès Haut à Courroies: the original Birkin bag”
Fortune, “Jane Birkin's original Birkin bag sells for $10 million at Sotheby's”, July 10, 2025
Fortune, “PETA and Hermès”, July 30, 2015
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About this guide
An independent reference for curious collectors.
MyQuotaBag brings together the stories, craftsmanship and market information behind some of the world's most recognizable handbags, to make them easier to explore and understand.
Resale figures come from publicly available asking prices. They represent listings, not confirmed sales or guaranteed future values. MyQuotaBag is independent and is not affiliated with or endorsed by Hermès.
How to cite: MyQuotaBag, « The Hermès Birkin », Hermès Bag Profiles, resale snapshot of 2026-10-18. https://myquotabag.com/bags/birkin/
